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RUBEX
Hub Kit RBX Patent No : U.S 7,488,225
Note:
¡@¡@RUBEX Props equip the Interchangeable Hub
System. Others' Solas Props equip the Trational
Rubber Hub System.
If you want to know the
differences. Please Click
on (RBX Hub Kit) &
Click on (Trational Rubber Hub)
RUBEX/RBX Introduction Video Selections
Choosing
the Right Propeller_By Neil Mullen
¡@¡@Recent advantages in outboard technology
have made choosing the correct propeller for
your boat both easier and more difficult--easier
because the number of choices has doubled,
and harder, for the same reason. Propeller
manufacturers have been busy developing new
3-blade and 4-blade products and size ranges
of stainless steel propellers to meet a growing
number of hull types and horsepower ranges,
especially for 4-stroke engines.
¡@¡@Four-stroke engines are designed to run
at very specific RPMs, so pitch sizes have
become available in 1 inch increments and
new designs have appeared, each more tailored
to a specific hull type and application. Propellers
with higher rake angles and some with more
surface area have been developed to maximize
the power delivery of the 4-stroke torque
curve.
Needs
¡@¡@The two most important things to remember
in choosing a propeller are that it meet your
individual needs for your individual application
and that it allow the engine(s) to run within
the specified RPM range at full throttle.
Each boater and fisherman is trying to meet
his requirements, but they can vary a lot.
¡@¡@What¡¦s important to you and the way you
fish: Top Speed, Cruising Speed, Hole Shot,
Load Carrying, Slow-Speed Handling, Slow Trolling,
Fast Trolling? Two identical boats with identical
engines could be propped quite differently,
depending on the usage, water conditions,
and load. There is no such thing as the best
or ideal prop for all applications of a similar
nature. Acceleration may be compromised for
top speed and fuel economy, and visa versa.
Often times, there may be 6 or 8 different
props that seem to run about the same, with
differences so subtle that any of them could
be considered satisfactory by most standards.
This just makes it that much harder to make
a decision and choose the right prop.
¡@¡@The purpose of this article is not to explain
propeller theory or hydrodynamics, but rather
to point out the various options in the market
place and set some common rules of thumb.
It will confine itself to the discussion of
3 and 4 blade stainless steels props as these
are the most common in the real world.
Three Blades
or Four?
¡@¡@In general, 3- blade props are the most
common. They are available in wide size ranges
and cost less than 4-blades. They typically
yield a slightly higher top end speed than
4-blades. They are available in a wider variety
of designs and offer more left hand rotation
pitch options for twin counter-rotating engine
applications.
¡@¡@Four-blades have some features of their
own, though. They often provide more lift
at the stern which will help accelerate the
hull, especially if it is stern heavy. They
come out of the hole strong and work well
for pulling skiers and water toys. In fishing
and offshore boats, they are oftentimes slightly
faster than 3-blades at mid-range rpm¡¦s, where
coastal anglers most often run their engines.
They also deliver slightly better fuel economy
at mid-range rpm. Oftentimes, a poor-handling
boat will improve by switching to a 4-blade
propeller, and more often than not, a 4-blade
will run smoother with better balance than
the 3-blade equivalent.
¡@¡@A 4-blade propeller will usually have a
smaller diameter for the same pitch size of
the 3-blade equivalent. This is one reason
they spin up quickly and yield good acceleration.
The blades are often a bit smaller but offer
more total blade area because of the additional
blade, so they have more grip on the water.
When switching from a 3-blade prop to a 4-blade,
you¡¦ll usually need to decrease the pitch
by 1 or 2 inches to keep the engine RPM in
the same range.
Propeller
Size
¡@¡@Propellers are sized and described by their
diameter and pitch. A propeller listed as
a 15 ? x 17 x 3 would indicate a 17 inch pitch,
3 blade propeller having a diameter of 15
? inches. Pitch is the theoretical distance
that the boat will move forward with each
revolution of the prop shaft, minus the slippage.
The pitch ultimately is responsible for the
top speed of the boat, much like the main
jet in a carburetor is responsible for the
ultimate power and speed of an engine.
¡@¡@The pitch must be matched to the engine¡¦s
recommended rpm range for full throttle. For
most engines, this top range is about 500
to1000 rpm (typically 5,000-5,500 for 2-strokes,
5,000-6,000 for 4-strokes). A light boat and
load will pull a high numerical pitch prop,
whereas a heavy boat and load would have to
run a smaller numerical pitch to load the
engine less and allow the engine to reach
recommended full throttle rpm. Keep in mind
that most propeller manufacturers design their
pitch in a progressive manner, to the point
that the actual pitch will vary across the
blade surface. Also, keep in mind that different
propeller manufacturers each measure their
pitch in slightly different ways with different
tolerances. This means that two propellers
of the same diameter and pitch from two different
companies can yield different performance
data.
¡@¡@For anglers slow-trolling for species like
rockfish and flounder, a propeller with lower
pitch (less distance per turn) that still
allows the engine to rev to the top of its
range will offer lower trolling speeds. It
will also push loads easier and make maneuvering
around a dock easier. On the other hand, a
prop with more pitch that lets the engine
turn to the lower end of its range may yield
higher top speed.
Hooking-Up
with the Water
¡@¡@There are other dynamics that come into
play as the boat accelerates to its top speed.
When it¡¦s sitting still in the water and the
skipper advances the throttle(s), the diameter
and surface area of the prop develop the initial
static thrust and launch the boat. As the
hull gains momentum and speed, the dynamic
thrust now is largely influenced by the prop¡¦s
ability to connect itself to the water and
hook-up without cavitating or ventilating.
¡@¡@Cavitation is loss of hook-up due to the
water literally boiling, caused by extreme
low pressure near or at the blade surface
or blade edge. Ventilation is a loss of hook-up
due to the introduction of air or exhaust
gases around the propeller. Basic blade design
and diameter can affect these problems. If
the diameter is too small for instance, it
can cause cavitation. If the engine is mounted
too high, it can cause ventilation. Both of
these phenomena can be minimized by installing
the correct prop. Going to a larger diameter
or switching to a 4-blade can sometimes accomplish
better hook-up. Larger diameter propellers
usually yield better maneuverability as they
push a larger volume of water on initial rotation,
especially at slow speed. They also grab more
water for better control when reversing. Matching
the diameter and pitch for a given load and
application gives the best performance for
a specific boat.
¡@¡@Another design concept, called cupping,
can also come into play here. Cupping means
curling the trailing edge of the blade slightly
to better grab water as it comes off of the
blade face. This facilitates hook-up, but
it can also load the engine more, much as
adding pitch does. Different series of props
have different amounts of cup in them. It
is not uncommon today to have props with cupping
added to the tip area of the blade to minimize
tip losses and maximize efficiency.
¡@¡@Vented props are available with an exhaust
relief hole at the base of each blade. These
holes can range from ? inch to approximately
3/8 inches in diameter. They allow exhaust
gases to escape around the propeller as it
begins to spin up on acceleration. The engine
gains rpm more quickly and reaches its ideal
power curve sooner to improve overall acceleration.
These props, however, do not work well for
fishermen who do a lot of slow trolling, as
the boat never gains enough speed to leave
the ventilated water, causing the prop to
catch-and-release, making the boat surge.
Vented props also do not work well with cat
hulls.
¡@¡@Matching style, blade design, pitch, and
diameter is just as important for boat handling
and safety as for maximizing cruising speed
and fuel efficiencies. Large diameter props
with lots of surface area help a boat climb
a big wave and allow the operator to maintain
good control in offshore conditions with rough
water. Again, good-hook up is essential without
overloading the engine and prop to the point
of causing cavitation.
Conclusion
¡@¡@If you can find a prop that seems to feel
good and run with confidence, don¡¦t be discouraged
if it¡¦s off by a little bit in ideal engine
rpm. Any competent prop shop can fine-tune
and tweak a good prop to make it perfect for
your application. Adding or removing pitch
up to 1 inch is not uncommon. Adding or removing
cupping is also a standard adjustment. It
is nearly impossible to find the right prop
without going through a dedicated session
of trial and error. With so many styles, designs
and options in the market today, there is
much to be gained by simply trying as many
props as you can. It is important to do any
comparative analysis between props in the
exact same water conditions as each other,
so that you can actually come away with usable
data.
¡@¡@Each of us has unique desires and requirements
for our propeller choices. They should always
be matched to a particular hull, load and
usage. My personal desire is to find a prop
that I consider to be well balanced. By that,
I mean one that handles well, yields average
mid-range and top speeds, with no quirkiness
or negative traits. I am always willing to
sacrifice top speed to achieve good all-round
performance, as I run wide open no more than
10% of the time, due to water conditions,
comfort level and passenger security.
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